Q. I, too, have had hot-starting problems, with three widely disparate engine-carburetor combinations. Once the engine on any one of these cars is at operating temperature and shut off, it is hard to start. It will only start when I hold the accelerator to the floor, pump several times and then it will start with difficulty. A Hudson aficionado told me that the engine is boiling the gasoline in the carburetor dry. I don’t remember this problem with other carbureted engines. Can someone identify the problem and cure?
– Bernard Van Sell, Center Point, Ind.
A. This is a problem that’s getting worse. Carlton Gravatt of Columbus, N.J., also has trouble restarting his ’41 Ford V-8 when it’s hot. One factor is today’s fuels. Modern gasoline is much more volatile than the mixture from your past. Many engines that had only marginal problems with vapor lock (flathead Ford V-8s, for example) can have it in spades with the new fuels, and many cars that never had the problem are now experiencing it. This may not be a single cause, but it will certainly not hurt to ventilate your engine compartment in any way possible, and to shield the carburetor, fuel lines and pump from any hot components such as exhaust pipes and manifolds. Any hoses must be alcohol-resistant, because ethanol is omnipresent, even if only in small quantities. Advice from anyone who’s actually solved a similar problem would be welcome.
Q. I purchased a 1940 Ford Tudor in 1999. I can trace the car back into the early 1960s, when it was a hot rod, with a Chevy 327-cid V-8 and a four-speed, split wishbones and a Chevy rear end. The owner lived in the desert and he loved to race. I don’t know how fast it will run as I can’t find a road that is long enough. I do know that it will do 100 mph in third gear. The VIN is 185523095. Can you tell me where my car was built?
– Gary Hilton, Torrance, Calif.
A. No. In contrast to today’s 17-digit VINs, which reveal much about a car’s specifications and where it was built, the serial and engine numbers of yesteryear contain little information. In most years, Ford engine and serial numbers were the same, and a chassis took its number from the engine at the time it was installed, although for a long period the number was not even stamped into the block — it was on the bell housing. In your case, “18” (frequently expressed with a dash or hyphen after it, as “18-”) refers to a 221-cid flathead V-8. All 221-cid Ford V-8s from 1932 to ’42 used an “18” prefix, which comes from the ’32 Model 18, the first car to use that engine. It remained the same even though the engine underwent several significant redesigns during the period. The remaining digits represent a sequential engine number, that started in 1932 and reached 6925898 when production was suspended in Feb. 1942 for World War II. All your car’s number reveals is that it started life in model year 1940 (numbers ranged from 5,210,701 to 5,896,294). After the war, annual prefixes were used, but numbers were again sequential through the 1948 model year. Not until ’49, did Ford “reset” the sequential number at the start of a model year. The assembly location is not in the VIN, nor is it found elsewhere on the car.
Q. I have an older car on my lot and wish to restore it. I need information regarding its identification, vintage, etc. The metal label on the firewall has the following information: General Motors of Canada, Ltd., Made in Canada, Model 12-11, Serial 1121148396, Trim 44, Engine 478257, Paint 157. I’m told that Kit Foster is a genius and can interpret it.
– Larry Hamel, Chilliwack, B.C., Canada
A. I’m afraid that reports of my prowess are rather inflated, but I can decipher parts of your car’s data plate. Model 12-11 is a 1951 Chevrolet Styline Special two-door sedan. However, the serial number does not match those in the usual U.S. catalogs, which begin with JA or JK. I was fortunate, however, to acquire some copies of the Motor Vehicle Data Book, published by Sanford Evans Co. Ltd. of Winnipeg, Manitoba, for cars “found in Canada.” The 1956 edition shows that your serial number does, indeed, correspond to the ’51 Styline Special. Empirically, we can figure out that the first “1” is for 1951, the next four digits correspond to the model number 12-11, and the last five digits are the sequential serial number. I’m afraid I can’t tell you about Trim 44 or Paint 157, and Sanford Evans gives no information on 1951 engine numbers. U.S. engine numbers had a JA prefix. Engine specs, however, seem to be the same: 216.5 cubic inches, 92 bhp at 3,400 rpm. Interestingly, according to the published specifications, the Canadian model weighed 3,107 pounds, 37 more than its U.S. counterpart, and at $2,160 Canadian, it sold for the equivalent of $2,030 in U.S. currency, when the same Chevy cost $1,540 in Detroit.
Q. In Aug. 1976, I purchased a new Gremlin from White Bear Lake AMC in Minnesota. It was reliable for more than 100,000 miles. It had a four-cylinder engine and four-on-the-floor transmission. The car now seems rare. What engine and transmission were used? How many were built?
– Lloyd Becker, Mahtomedi, Minn.
A. The Gremlin was American Motors’ answer to both the Pinto and Vega, cleverly created by shortening the new-for-1970 AMC Hornet. At its 1971 introduction, the Gremlin had the advantage of a six-cylinder engine, not available in Pinto or Vega, and a V-8 was offered from 1972 to ’76. After the energy crisis of 1973-’74, however, this turned into a liability since AMC didn’t have a four. Beginning in 1977 (some sources say February — are you sure yours was purchased in ’76?), an Audi-designed overhead-cam four of two-liter (121-cubic inch) displacement was offered, and a new Borg Warner four-speed was also available. In 1977, the four was standard on the Gremlin; for ’78, it became standard in the Concord (new name for the Hornet) as well. For ’79, Gremlin was renamed Spirit, and in ’80, the Audi four was replaced by the 2.5-liter “Iron Duke” from Pontiac. The four-cylinder Spirit was phased out in 1983, when the Franco-American Alliance (née Renault) was put into production, but the Iron Duke remained in the Eagle 50 and Eagle 30, which were all-wheel-drive versions of the Spirit and Concord, respectively. However, AMC’s own 150-cid four was finally ready, and it replaced the Iron Duke mid-year. The new engine also found application in several Jeep models. Four-cylinder Gremlin production for 1977 was just 7,558 units, about 16 percent of the total.
Q. I recently bought a vehicle simply because I’ve never seen another like it. Can you tell me if it’s rare? I’ve searched the internet and have not seen another with the same specifications. It’s a 1967 Dodge D200 crew cab short-wheelbase pickup with a stepside bed. It has the original slant six engine. I’ve found plenty of single cabs and plenty of crew cabs with a fleetside bed, but not one like mine. It was formerly a U.S. Air Force truck. Can you tell me more about these trucks?
– Joel Smith, Livingston, La.
A. If you had spent time on military air bases in the 1960s and ’70s you might have seen a bunch of this type of truck. The U.S. Government, in particular the armed services, often buys vehicles that are out of the mainstream and are specially configured. A truck like yours would be used to transport a crew of up to six people with a small payload of equipment or tools. All these military vehicles are purchased in relatively large lots, in response to government-issued specifications. This sometimes results in odd configurations. Some years ago, my son and I attended a municipal auction of surplus equipment, looking for bicycles. We came home with a 1977 Dodge 4x4 pickup, formerly in the service of the Maine National Guard. A little investigation revealed we had bought an M880, not an ordinary W200. The oddest thing about it, aside from some strange electrical equipment, was its lack of power steering. Real soldiers, no doubt, steer with their biceps, not their fingers.
Q. Sam Slade’s letter about General Motors valve springs (Aug. 12 “Q&A”) wasn’t completely an urban legend. His terminology was just a bit off. Valve spring life is greatly improved by proper shot peening. While the process looks like shot blasting to the casual observer, the media used and the application conditions are much different. The media is carefully cleaned by sifting through a series of screens to remove any broken pieces and debris. All the “shot” must have rounded edges to effectively “peen” the surface of the metal and increase the compressive strength of the metal. The process is routinely performed on springs, gears, shafts and other parts that are highly loaded. Interested readers can learn more by looking at the Metal Improvement Company’s web site (www.metalimprovement.com) or checking a few reference books. I don’t know about the “free car for life” part of the story, but the process has certainly made a lot of money for the patent holder.
– Charles D. Schultz, P.E., Winfield, Ill.
A. Thanks for filling in the technical side of the story. I suspect the free car is akin to the proverbial free lunch.
Q. Prior to receiving the July 31 military-themed issue of Old Cars Weekly, my friend Dave and I were discussing whether 1942 cars were built for military use in 1943-’45 and dated 1942. Also, were 1946 car and truck sales above average?
– Ron Bannister, Webster, Mass.
A. All passenger car production stopped by Feb. 10, 1942. However, automobile rationing was already in effect, and the cars built were stockpiled for priority users: military, doctors, clergy, firefighters, etc. Thus, all new cars delivered from 1943 until production resumed in ’45 were built prior to the February 1942 date. There’s an extensive article on this in the July-August 2008 issue of “Antique Automobile,” published by the Antique Automobile Club of America. Truck production, of course, continued as needed throughout the war, mostly military types. As for 1946 sales, it depends on what you consider “average.” Car and truck sales had reached a peak of 5.3 million units in 1929, then sagged markedly during the Depression. 1932 was the worst, with 1.3 million sales. Recovery to 4.8 million in ’37 was followed by another recession in ’38, with sales sinking to 2.5 million. Sensing the coming of war, manufacturers rolled out 4.8 million vehicles in 1941, and they were eagerly snapped up by consumers. Ford was given the okay to resume civilian truck production in April 1944. Ford was also the first to recommence building passenger cars, on July 3, 1945, while others, such as Studebaker, didn’t get rolling until early 1946. Even then there were materials shortages and labor troubles, so while there was great demand the supplies were still limited. Calendar 1946 car and truck sales totaled “just” 3,089,565 units. The five million mark was not reached again until 1948.
Q. Did Ford Motor Co. build any 1939 half-ton four-wheel-drive pickups? If it did, who supplied the add-ons? The vehicle in question is VIN LLD3479917. What accessories did it have, where was it sold and who was the original owner? I believe the original owner was National Grass Lands in western Kansas.
Ernie Ashley, Larned, Kan.
A. Ford did not offer a factory-built 4x4 until 1959. Prior to that time, most four-wheel-drive conversions were carried out by the Marmon-Herrington Co. of Indianapolis, a venture of Walter Marmon, son of Marmon Motor Car Co. founder Howard Marmon, and Arthur Herrington, a former Army officer with experience in off-road transportation. Herrington held a patent for a constant velocity universal joint, an essential part of the 4x4 drivetrain. From 1931, they built light and heavy all-wheel-drive vehicles, mostly for the armed forces. Beginning in 1937, Marmon-Herrington converted Ford cars and trucks at its factory; after World War II, it also supplied kits to dealers. To decipher your VIN, I consulted Don Chew, an authority on Marmon-Herrington. He explains that the first L and the D signify Light Duty (appropriate to a half-ton truck). The second L means you have the high-performance 95-hp engine (the 239-cid V-8 introduced for use in the Mercury and some commercial vehicles in ’39). The 3 means third series (1937 was the first, so third series is ’39), 4 is four-wheel-drive, and the last five digits come from the Ford engine/serial number. Marmon-Herrington replaced the Ford data plates with its own, and requested that installing dealers do the same, though not all of them did. The VIN has no information on options, nor do we know who the original owner was. Your information on National Grass Lands may well be correct. Your Marmon-Herrington is rarer than the regular Ford pickups, but Chew cautions that its low gearing limits speed to about 35 mph.
Q. Prior to receiving the July 31 military-themed issue of Old Cars Weekly, my friend Dave and I were discussing whether 1942 cars were built for military use in 1943-’45 and dated 1942. Also, were 1946 car and truck sales above average?
Ron Bannister, Webster, Mass.
A. All passenger car production stopped by Feb. 10, 1942. However, automobile rationing was already in effect, and the cars built were stockpiled for priority users: military, doctors, clergy, firefighters, etc. Thus, all new cars delivered from 1943 until production resumed in ’45 were built prior to the February 1942 date. There’s an extensive article on this in the July-August 2008 issue of “Antique Automobile,” published by the Antique Automobile Club of America. Truck production, of course, continued as needed throughout the war, mostly military types. As for 1946 sales, it depends on what you consider “average.” Car and truck sales had reached a peak of 5.3 million units in 1929, then sagged markedly during the Depression. 1932 was the worst, with 1.3 million sales. Recovery to 4.8 million in ’37 was followed by another recession in ’38, with sales sinking to 2.5 million. Sensing the coming of war, manufacturers rolled out 4.8 million vehicles in 1941, and they were eagerly snapped up by consumers. Ford was given the okay to resume civilian truck production in April 1944. Ford was also the first to recommence building passenger cars, on July 3, 1945, while others, such as Studebaker, didn’t get rolling until early 1946. Even then there were materials shortages and labor troubles, so while there was great demand the supplies were still limited. Calendar 1946 car and truck sales totaled “just” 3,089,565 units. The five million mark was not reached again until 1948.
Q. In answer to a question regarding gauges with positive ground, the only General Motors cars with positive ground were Cadillac and LaSalle. All the others were negative ground.
Charles B. Arnold, Newark, Del.
A. Thanks for clarifying that. I see in some of my references that Cadillac switched to negative ground after World War II.
Q. I own a 1967 Dodge Polara 500 convertible. It’s well-optioned, with front disc brakes, power windows and cruise control. I’ve not seen another like it. How many ’67 500 convertibles were built?
Tom Conca, Cranston, R.I.
A. No one seems to know. Dodge production figures in that era are not broken out by body style. The Polara 500 was available only as a hardtop coupe or a convertible, which helps narrow it down, but Krause Publications’ Standard Catalog of American Cars 1946-1975 gives total Polara 500 production as 3,200, rounded to the nearest 100, while the Publications International Encyclopedia of American Cars (2002 edition) states 5,606.
Q. I sold a 1950 Plymouth sedan to a gentleman 20 years ago. Lately, I’ve wanted to see if he’d consider selling it back to me, but over the years, I’ve forgotten his name and have no record of who he is. I don’t know the license number nor the VIN of the car. I’ve contacted my insurance company, with no luck, and our DMV can’t do a trace without this critical vehicle information. I’m stumped. Do you know any other way to trace the car?
Ken Bush, Northfield, Vt.
A. No, unless someone reading this column remembers buying a Plymouth sedan 20 years ago in Vermont.
Q. A couple of years ago, Old Cars Weekly ran an article about Buddy Holly’s 1958 Chevy Impala being found behind a body shop in Texas. The picture with the article showed “Peggy Sue” standing beside it. Since I once owned a ’58 Impala, I’m interested in what happened to this car.
Alvin Parris, Boiling Springs, S.C.
A. If Mr. Parris, or any reader curious about this celebrity car, types Buddy Holly Impala into an Internet search engine, they’ll be able to access a link to an almost four-minute video on YouTube that provides the history of this vintage Chevy.
Q. It would be nice to replace spark plug gaskets, but I’ve not been able to locate them. A few years ago, I was provided with a part number for Champion brand gaskets in the 14mm size, but I’ve not been able to order them from any source. Also, I’ve been advised that plugs for flathead Fords may fail to operate properly if abrasive blasted. Apparently, the ceramic tip should retain a smooth surface to avoid problems.
Peter Harding, Gardnerville, Nev.
A. I’ve read that one should never blast spark plugs, simply replace them, in which case the new plugs will have new gaskets. Of course, if you have an old car that repeatedly fouls plugs, roughness from blasting is perhaps the least of your worries. In that case, I’d reuse the old gaskets, too.
Q. I’ve owned a 1928 Dodge Victory Six for four months, and would like to find out all I can about it. In what years was the Victory Six produced? What are the starting and ending serial numbers? How many are left? I’m 17 years old and this is my first collector car. I love old cars and learning about them.
Andrew Kean, Denton, Neb.
A. I’m glad to hear that you’ve become so involved with old cars. The years 1927 to ’29 were a period of great change at Dodge. In May 1927, the company introduced its first six-cylinder car, the Senior Six. The last four-cylinder Dodges were built that year. January 1928 brought the Victory Six, a mid-sized car on a 112-inch wheelbase with a 208 cubic-inch, 58 bhp engine. In March it was joined by a smaller Standard Six on a 110-inch wheelbase with the same engine. The Standard and Victory Sixes were built only through that December, while the Senior carried on until June 1929. The cars built after July 1928 are considered “first series 1929” models. The Victory Six had a distinctive 3-3-3-2 pattern of louvers on the hood sides, and was offered in roadster, touring, coupe, sedan and brougham (two-door sedan) body styles at prices from $1,030 to $1,170. I can’t find any definitive production totals, but serial numbers ran from M1 to M87759, so we can estimate that nearly 90,000 were built. I can’t hazard a guess as to the number that survive. The Dodge Brothers company was purchased by Walter P. Chrysler in July 1928, and Chrysler influence was apparent in the Victory’s successor, the Dodge DA introduced in January 1929. Excellent Dodge books include “The Dodge Story” by Thomas A. McPherson (Crestline, 1975) and “The Dodge Brothers” by Charles K. Hyde (Great Lakes Books, 2005). The latter is a scholarly examination of Dodge’s founders and their company, and the former is a detailed illustrated history of Dodge cars and trucks to 1975. Copies are still available and reasonably priced on the used market.
Q. Where can I purchase the heavy-duty starter solenoid and spring for a 1967 Chevrolet 283-cid V-8? There were articles on this about 10 years ago. I’ve heard that General Motors has discontinued these items.
S. Gunville, via e-mail
A. Given the extent to which the small-block Chevy pervades the collector car hobby, I’d be surprised if these parts are not being made by somebody. Readers?
Q. I’ve acquired a Chrysler Windsor, Vehicle No. 70165599, Model 22, Paint 6, Scheduled Item 110064. Is the year of the car 1955?
James Smith, via e-mail
A. Your vehicle number identifies it as a Detroit-built Windsor Deluxe from the 1954 model year. Serial numbers for the Windsor ran from 70141001 to 70181908. For the ’55 model year, Chrysler shifted to a W55 prefix for Windsors, N55 for New Yorkers. I’m not sure about the model designation nor the paint code. The “Schedule” number is a code for the day it was designated to be built, but I’m not sure how to read it. The early 1960s Chrysler Corp. Schedule Order numbers with which I’m familiar have eight digits, broken down into month, day, body type and sequential number for that day.
Q. My dad and I have a 1928 Chevy truck. The fuel pump is a vacuum canister. Ours has worked well for years, but now has failed. I believe, after a process of elimination, that the check valve in the canister is bad. The canister appears to be a sealed unit. Do you have any advice as to how to repair this valve or replace the canister?
Jim Thurmond, via e-mail
A. Although much maligned and often replaced or augmented with an electric fuel pump, the vacuum tank is a simple and reliable device. It’s really two canisters in one, an inner chamber to which manifold vacuum pulls fuel from the tank, and an outer chamber into which the fuel drains once the inner chamber is full and vacuum is released. From the outer chamber the fuel feeds to the carburetor by gravity. Most of the “action” takes place in the inner chamber. There’s a float inside that operates two valves at the top of the chamber. When the float is in the up position, it shuts off vacuum from the manifold and opens a vent to the outside. When the inner chamber has drained, the valves do the reverse, enabling vacuum to the chamber and closing the outside vent. At the bottom of the inner chamber is a simple flapper valve that shuts off the drain when vacuum is applied. By removing screws at the top you should be able to extract the inner chamber from the outer. Now you’ll be able to see if the flapper valve is free (I’ve had them stick shut if left too long in old fuel). The top can be removed from the inner chamber, which will allow you to check the operation of the vacuum and vent valves. These are both metallic needle-type and as long as they’re clean, should work satisfactorily. The only other part is the float, which must not leak. If you sense any sloshing in the float once you remove it, there is fuel inside. It can be repaired in the same manner as any metal carburetor float. All parts should be clean, and should move freely. Be careful removing the top from the inner chamber, particularly if it’s cast from pot metal. There should be one gasket, between the top and the inner chamber. There is no gasket between the inner chamber and the outer chamber. Once everything seems to be operating correctly, make a new cork gasket, using as a pattern the old one you carefully removed, and reassemble.
Q. I put a universal catalytic converter on my 1970 Chevy van (six-cylinder 250-cid engine) to help clean up the exhaust smell. It worked great, but it’s been a few years and now the exhaust manifold gasket is failing in a few places. Is this failure related to the catalytic converter? Has it caused excessive back pressure? I recently took it off and put a pipe in its place to see if I could get better performance. There seemed to be no difference.
Mike Van Mann, via e-mail
A. You don’t say what sort of smell you had, nor how strong the odor was. Whatever substance was making the smell is now inside the converter, and this conceivably could have plugged it up, though it’s hard to tell from your description. Certainly if your engine is burning oil the converter will be well coated inside by now, but how much it will take in order to produce gasket-blowing back pressure I’m not sure. In any case, you’ll need new manifold gaskets. Take a look in the converter inlet with a strong light to see if there are any obvious deposits. In worst case you could replace the converter, though I’m sure you’d rather avoid the expense.
Q. Where can I purchase the heavy-duty starter solenoid and spring for a 1967 Chevrolet 283-cid V-8? There were articles on this about 10 years ago. I’ve heard that General Motors has discontinued these items.
S. Gunville, via e-mail
A. Given the extent to which the small-block Chevy pervades the collector car hobby, I’d be surprised if these parts are not being made by somebody. Readers?
Q. I’ve acquired a Chrysler Windsor, Vehicle No. 70165599, Model 22, Paint 6, Scheduled Item 110064. Is the year of the car 1955?
James Smith, via e-mail
A. Your vehicle number identifies it as a Detroit-built Windsor Deluxe from the 1954 model year. Serial numbers for the Windsor ran from 70141001 to 70181908. For the ’55 model year, Chrysler shifted to a W55 prefix for Windsors, N55 for New Yorkers. I’m not sure about the model designation nor the paint code. The “Schedule” number is a code for the day it was designated to be built, but I’m not sure how to read it. The early 1960s Chrysler Corp. Schedule Order numbers with which I’m familiar have eight digits, broken down into month, day, body type and sequential number for that day.
Q. My dad and I have a 1928 Chevy truck. The fuel pump is a vacuum canister. Ours has worked well for years, but now has failed. I believe, after a process of elimination, that the check valve in the canister is bad. The canister appears to be a sealed unit. Do you have any advice as to how to repair this valve or replace the canister?
Jim Thurmond, via e-mail
A. Although much maligned and often replaced or augmented with an electric fuel pump, the vacuum tank is a simple and reliable device. It’s really two canisters in one, an inner chamber to which manifold vacuum pulls fuel from the tank, and an outer chamber into which the fuel drains once the inner chamber is full and vacuum is released. From the outer chamber the fuel feeds to the carburetor by gravity. Most of the “action” takes place in the inner chamber. There’s a float inside that operates two valves at the top of the chamber. When the float is in the up position, it shuts off vacuum from the manifold and opens a vent to the outside. When the inner chamber has drained, the valves do the reverse, enabling vacuum to the chamber and closing the outside vent. At the bottom of the inner chamber is a simple flapper valve that shuts off the drain when vacuum is applied. By removing screws at the top you should be able to extract the inner chamber from the outer. Now you’ll be able to see if the flapper valve is free (I’ve had them stick shut if left too long in old fuel). The top can be removed from the inner chamber, which will allow you to check the operation of the vacuum and vent valves. These are both metallic needle-type and as long as they’re clean, should work satisfactorily. The only other part is the float, which must not leak. If you sense any sloshing in the float once you remove it, there is fuel inside. It can be repaired in the same manner as any metal carburetor float. All parts should be clean, and should move freely. Be careful removing the top from the inner chamber, particularly if it’s cast from pot metal. There should be one gasket, between the top and the inner chamber. There is no gasket between the inner chamber and the outer chamber. Once everything seems to be operating correctly, make a new cork gasket, using as a pattern the old one you carefully removed, and reassemble.
Q. I put a universal catalytic converter on my 1970 Chevy van (six-cylinder 250-cid engine) to help clean up the exhaust smell. It worked great, but it’s been a few years and now the exhaust manifold gasket is failing in a few places. Is this failure related to the catalytic converter? Has it caused excessive back pressure? I recently took it off and put a pipe in its place to see if I could get better performance. There seemed to be no difference.
Mike Van Mann, via e-mail
A. You don’t say what sort of smell you had, nor how strong the odor was. Whatever substance was making the smell is now inside the converter, and this conceivably could have plugged it up, though it’s hard to tell from your description. Certainly if your engine is burning oil the converter will be well coated inside by now, but how much it will take in order to produce gasket-blowing back pressure I’m not sure. In any case, you’ll need new manifold gaskets. Take a look in the converter inlet with a strong light to see if there are any obvious deposits. In worst case you could replace the converter, though I’m sure you’d rather avoid the expense.
Q. This is in answer to Worrell Stout’s question on Yale Engine Overhaul Pellets. They were nothing more than small black balls of wax that would fit through a spark plug hole. When the combustion chamber heated up, in theory at least, the wax would melt and run down, sealing worn rings and cylinder bores. This produced a temporary improvement in engine performance. Of course, the package didn’t tell you that’s all they were. Your engine had to be shot before you would start resorting to such miracle fixes, but at least the little balls did no further damage. I do not have any details about the liquid product you mention, but I have a can of it on the shelf that I bought decades ago, but have never trusted it enough to use.
Chas Langelan, Mt. Airy, Md.
A. Thanks. Randy Smith from Tacoma, Wash., wrote to say he did use the Yale pellets in his brother’s 1951 Chevy pickup. The truck was a real oil-burner, so they bought some of the pellets and a quart of engine-overhaul-in-a-can, changed the oil, removed the spark plugs and administered the potions. After a month of driving they noticed that the blue smoke and rate of oil use had both noticeably decreased. I’m not sure whether this disputes or confirms Mr. Langelan’s explanation.
Q. Regarding the questions about front end shimmy, we at Stempf Automotive Industries have been supplying front end and alignment parts and solutions for 70 years. Mr. Reiff was right about adding caster wedges to increase caster. This has also been shown to work on newer Dodge Ram pickups that have shimmy or even bump steer at higher speeds. I’m sure we would have the part on hand to help Old Cars Weekly readers. You can also check us out at www.stempf.com.
Greg Hoffman, Stempf Automotive, Minnetonka, Minn.
A. Thanks. You can also call Stempf Automotive at 888-596-5206. A number of readers have suggested hydraulic steering dampers or stabilizers for this or other steering-related woes. Bill McLellan of Pasadena, Calif., says he purchased one from Pep Boys. J.C. Whitney used to sell them, but no longer does. He says he sees “these steering shocks on all the vehicles in California that have been super-raised, where the tie rods are visible, so somebody is making them and probably hot rod magazines advertise them.” And off-road mags, too, I expect. For the straight-axle pickups, the caster wedges seem like a neater solution.
Q. I have a 1984 Oldsmobile Regency Brougham. Inside the trunk lid there is a Service Parts Information Sticker from the factory. At the bottom of the list there is a code TAG018: NEW CAR SHOW. At the time I purchased the car, I was told that it may have been the car used in the Detroit Auto Show or others in 1983 (it was built in August 1983) when the new models were introduced. Does anyone have knowledge of this identification designation?
Malcolm D. Harrison, Jr., Arlington, Va.
A. I expect that “NEW CAR SHOW” means it was destined for some auto show, but the Detroit show is in January, so the timing seems off. Perhaps a reader is more familiar with this topic.
Q. At the risk of stirring up an old issue, here is more information on Buick engine decals. In the late 1960s, Buick moved from torque figures to displacement on the air cleaner labels. Through 1966 or ’67, the air cleaner said “Wildcat XXX,” where XXX was the maximum torque output of the engine. The 1962 Wildcat, for example, was labeled “Wildcat 445.” My 1968 LeSabre has a label “350-2,” that signifies a two-barrel 350-cid engine. Finally, the 1970 GSX says “GS 455,” which is the displacement, without mentioning the carburetion.
John Hart, Troy, Mich.
A. Thanks. Useful information is seldom risky. After answering the June 5 comment, I came across a 1959 Buick brochure that mentions the 401 cubic-inch “Wildcat 445” engine, apparently its first year. It was used through the ’66 model year. I think more than one person was confusing 445 with 455.
Q. I hear the average 18-year-old is surprised that cars didn’t always have power windows and door locks. That causes me to ask when they became standard equipment on mid-size and larger domestic cars. I’m going to guess it was in the late 1980s or early ’90s.
Ed Thompson, Milwaukee, Wis.
A. I think they’re often part of a trim package, as opposed to being standard on a specific model, but I’m sure our readers will be able to quote chapter and verse.
Q. I have a restored 1957 Ford Thunderbird with the dual four-barrel option. Any idea where I can find the correct air cleaner element? There are no numbers on mine.
Jim DiCarlo, West Caldwell, N.J.
A. My tactic would be to take the old element to a well-stocked parts store and look for one the right shape and size. They may also have a catalog that shows dimensions for the various elements manufactured by their suppliers. I’ll bet, however, that some Old Cars Weekly readers know of specific elements that will work.
Q. I have a 2006 Ford Mustang with an alarm system that is constantly armed with a blinking red light on the dashboard. If I start the car in a period of less than a week it fires right up. When I try after it’s been idle for a week, the electrical system is a dead-starter: lights, radio, etc. The dealer tells me I have to either run it every four days or disconnect a battery terminal due to the alarm system discharging the battery. What is even more odd is that when I put a trickle charger on the “dead” battery it completely charges in about 15 minutes, rather than a long overnight charge. Is there some sort of system built in that shuts off everything if the battery partly drains due to the security light, that I’m not aware of how to disengage?
Dan Turygan, Elwood, N.J.
A. Some may say this is not an old car question, but I’m interested in the answer because I have a 1995 Chevy Suburban that does much the same thing (and I use it for towing old cars, so yes, this is an old car question). The other annoying thing about the Suburban is that the doors lock by themselves every time all of them are closed, which can be incredibly inconvenient when loading and unloading. I’d like to know how to disable the system, at least temporarily. I bought the truck used and there’s no documentation on the security system. It’s not mentioned in the owner’s manual, so I presume it’s an aftermarket setup.
Q. I recently purchased a 1954 Ford pickup. It had been sitting for about seven years and the brake drums are frozen to the shoes. I know that I’ll have to replace everything, but how can I be gentle so that I don’t make a bigger mess? I’ve tried some heat and a lot of pounding. The engine is out of the truck, and the fenders and bed were removed by the previous owner, so it’s light right now. Should I just drag it around and hope for the best?
Don Urgaris, via e-mail
A. I think if you drag it the seized wheels will just skid along the ground. I’ve always had good luck using a hefty three-leg hub puller, even on the front wheels. The hold-down springs and cups will be trashed when the shoes finally let go (the cups will go first), but you’ll want to replace them anyway. If it has a full-floating rear axle you need to remove the axles and bearings first. But in general, gentle won’t do it; be bold.
Q. My problem auto is a 1928 Pontiac. Do you know of anyone who has plans or cuts wood for my car? I need the wood around the windshield, dash and front door pillar. I have the rear section almost done. I bought the car from a guy who started the project by taking the car apart and throwing away the wood! I’ve tried ads, and have had no response from print ads or the internet. The Pontiac club has little old car information. The new generation of auto restorers seems to know only hot rods or cars from 1955 up. Us old-timers are a dying breed.
Robert Aschebrock, Stratford, Wis.
A. As always, we’re happy to assist those who can help in contacting those in need. If you can help Mr. Aschebrock with plans or patterns, contact “Q&A” per the addresses below.
Q. Many years ago at Hershey (so long ago there were only one or two fields), I remember a 1929 LaSalle coupe that had been converted to a tow truck. On the side was painted “Wilton Garage” and the phone number was “1”. I believe the seller’s price was $2,500. I’m interested to find out what happened to that tow truck. I grew up living next to that garage, and in July 1967, that truck towed its last car, my 1960 Falcon. The garage owner then retired the LaSalle due to cracks in its wood spoke wheels. He refused to tow anything else with it and replaced it with a Dodge Power Wagon.
Brian Gunther, Wilton, Conn.
A. Well, it’s probably out there somewhere, but may have been restored back to a LaSalle coupe. Regardless of condition, I doubt you could buy it for $2,500. Do any readers have any recall of this automobile/tow truck?
Q. In response to Bill Vandever’s question in the April 10 issue regarding a heavy-duty radiator for his 1937 Chevy, he need look no further than Summit Racing. Listed in its current catalog are Griffin brand heavy-duty street rod aluminum radiators made for direct fit into older cars. Although not shown in the catalog, a quick phone call produced two listings: a center-located inlet (top) at $579.69 and a driver’s side-located inlet at $633.69. These radiators are one-inch thick, two-row construction (good for up to 400 hp) and have built-in transmission coolers. Summit Racing’s toll-free line is 1-800-230-3030.
Dave Koch, Akron, OhioA. Thanks for that information. I was sure the street rod community had a solution for the problem. Dan Wilken of Shannon, Ill., says he has been using a stock radiator in his ’37 Chevrolet, with a 267-cid V-8 engine from a 1980 Caprice. While having the radiator tested prior to installation, he had the shop install new inlet and outlet tubes to match the hose size to the engine. He runs a 4-pound cap, 160-degree thermostat and 7-blade, 17-inch fan. He’s had no trouble during several years of driving every day, winter and summer.
Q. I have a 1962 Willys four-wheel drive pickup. The steering wheel has the structural internal spokes situated at the 12 and 6 o’clock positions instead of the original 3 and 9 o’clock positions. Evidently, through years of service something has worn or changed in the steering system to change the steering wheel position. Can you tell me the proper way to change the wheel back to its original position? I’ve never had the wheel off, but I know from past experience that most of the time they are in a fixed position and cannot be adjusted.
Keith Schanz, West End, N.C.
A. As you say, some steering wheels have symmetrical splines and can be rotated relative to the steering shaft and others cannot. I’m not sure which type your Willys has. This problem is frequently caused by a bent component in the steering system, the remedy for which is replacement of the damaged part (some say that a minor kink can sometimes be corrected if straightened cold). On the other hand, your 90-degree displacement seems a lot, even for collision damage. I’d start by checking every part of the steering linkage for apparent damage, followed by investigation of the mounting of the steering wheel to the column shaft. I’ve had experience with a Chevy Suburban whose steering box sustained internal injuries in an incident involving a stone wall. The damage was not apparent from the outside, but only upon disassembly after replacing it with a rebuilt unit.
Q. In the April 24 “Q&A,” Christopher Sass asked for information on vehicles built at General Motors’ Fisher Body Plant located at 900 Baldwin Avenue in Pontiac, Mich. Apart from the Pontiac Fiero built there from late 1983 to about ’88, only bodies were built in the plant. A friend who was an engineer in the plant’s engineering department at Pontiac tells me his recollection is that A, B and G bodies (e.g.: LeMans, Bonneville and Grand Prix) were built there in the 1961-’83 period and sent via an overpass to the adjacent Pontiac Motor Division assembly plant. Prior to World War II, as far as I know, all Pontiac A, B and (sometimes) C styles were built at Baldwin Avenue.
Roy Nagel, Bloomfield Hills, Mich.
A. Roy Nagel is a retired GM engineer, and we thank him for his recollections and those of his colleague.
Q. A friend found an old package of Yale engine overhaul pellets in his late father’s effects. The instructions read to put several pellets into the spark plug holes, reinstall the plugs and the pellets will then overhaul your engine while you drive. I never heard of this stuff in 40 years of mechanic work. How old is this product? It looks mid-50s by the package. What can you or your readers tell me about this stuff, good or bad?
Worrell Stout, Huntingdon Valley, Pa.
A. Like most magic elixirs, I suspect the product has been around about as long as internal combustion engines themselves. I have a 1957 J.C. Whitney catalog that offers both the Yale pellets and a companion product, “Engine Overhaul Liquid Plate,” which one was supposed to add to the oil. The blurb reads that “while you drive, the worn parts are plated with a metallic layer that actually rebuilds them with a factory-like finish and fit…. Genuine engine overhaul, it lasts and lasts. Unconditionally guaranteed – or money back.” The liquid and pellets were sold together for $4.95 postpaid. We used to joke about the stuff back in the day, but I don’t know anyone who actually tried it. Do any of our readers have experience with these potions or even know what they’re made of?
Q. Years ago, I owned a 1938 Chevy convertible with a rumbleseat. I don’t ever see them. Can you tell me how many were actually made?
Cecil Long, Yuma, Ariz.
A. According to Krause Publications’ Standard Catalog of American Cars 1805-1942, Chevrolet offered a cabriolet in the Master series (HB) for 1938, of which 2,787 were produced. The only other rumbleseat model was the HA Master Deluxe sport coupe, with 2,790 built. These were Chevy’s final rumbleseat cars. The cabriolet was not the rarest ’38 Chevy, however. That distinction goes to the Master Deluxe five-passenger “flatback” sedan, whose production halted after 236 cars. Apparently most customers preferred the sport sedan, which had the increasingly popular built-in “touring trunk.”
Q. Regarding the standard shift 1961 Thunderbird (“Q&A,” April 17), in January 1996, I was in Belleville, Ill., and a gentleman there had a 1961 T-bird with no radio, no power windows, no heater, clear glass and small hubcaps. It was standard shift, low mileage and had probably not been driven in 20 years. How would you like to look for a radio-delete plate for a ’61 T-bird!
Ralph Wescott, Largo, Fla.
A. Thanks for reporting your sighting of a “stripper” ’61 Thunderbird. We’ve also heard from Carrol Hiatt of North Platte, Neb., who acquired a similar ’60 T-bird, with three-speed column shift and overdrive, and no power brakes, steering or windows nor air conditioning. He says it has the 430-cid V-8, which many sources state was only available with automatic. Dick Gervais of Rochester, N.H., also remembers one owned by a neighbor, a ’59 or ’60 with overdrive and the 430. That was 40 years ago, and he recalls that it would do 90 mph in second gear.
Q. In the April 24 “Q&A,” Jim Kruk asked about his overdrive solenoid when changing to 12 volts. The 6-volt solenoid does need to be replaced with a 12-volt solenoid. A voltage reducer or resistor will not work because there are actually two sets of contact points inside the solenoid. The heavy windings and contacts engage the solenoid and draw about 10-11 amperes. The smaller holding coils hold the solenoid engaged and draw about 1-2 amps. Trying to use a single voltage reducer will subject the smaller coil to too high a voltage and eventually destroy it. Spare solenoid parts are expensive and difficult to find. You can use a 1956 or newer 12-volt solenoid – just be sure it’s from the same type and model. Check the shaft lengths and end of the shaft to be sure they match. Station wagon and convertible models typically have long shafts due to the extra crossmembers in the frame. It helps that 11 different car companies used the same Borg-Warner overdrive, and that the solenoids will interchange between makes.
Randy Rundle, Fifth Avenue Auto Parts, Clay Center, Kan.
A. The solenoids are more complex than I thought. I’m glad I was on the right track in suggesting a 12-volt solenoid.
Q. I’m having trouble getting an ignition switch for my 1954 Packard Patrician. I’ve bought two, and both stick in the “start” position. Do you or any readers know where I can get a good switch or where I can get mine repaired? Or, are there other cars that use the same switch?
Larry Morrison, Redfield, Iowa
A. I presume you’ve been finding used switches, and it sounds like you’ve discovered their weak point. Short of finding an NOS switch, you might try carefully disassembling one of yours. I don’t know this type personally, but I’ve had good luck with repairing other switches, including the multipurpose light stalks used on modern cars, that were never intended to be taken apart. In your case, it sounds like wear on the mechanical parts rather than an electrical contact problem. Be patient and work in an open, clean area so that you can find any little springs that take flight. Has anyone got any other tips?
Q. I’m trying to help a friend with his 1951 Plymouth. The car has a ’54 Plymouth six-cylinder with three-on-the-tree. He’d like to install an automatic, and I suggested an old Torqueflite. Do you know if this combo is compatible, or do you have any other suggestions?
Matt Holmes, La Palma, Calif.
A. It sounds the most likely candidate, or a Powerflite, used by Plymouth from 1954 to ’60, if your friend will be happy with two speeds, bearing in mind that a ’56 or later unit will be set up for push-button shift. In addition to checking how the torque converter mounts to the engine, you’ll have to measure the installed length to see if the driveshaft will need to be modified. Finally, and perhaps most important, check the floor clearance. In 1953 and ’54, when Plymouth offered Hy-Drive, its version of Fluid Drive, the cars so-equipped had a completely different floor pan. Has any reader done a similar project?
Q. I have a 1941 Ford V-8, and I’ve had nothing but trouble with ignition coils. I can only drive about 30 minutes before the coil overheats and shuts down. I have a spare that I use and the same thing happens. Do you know of any method of adapting a 1942-’46 distributor to my engine?
Nick Nicholson, Schaumburg, Ill.
A. Early Ford V-8s had a front-mounted distributor, with the coil located directly on top. This location, directly behind the radiator, subjected the ignition system to high temperatures, shortening the life of electrical components. Beginning in 1942, Ford provided a partial remedy by relocating the coil to a position atop the engine. In the final iteration of the flathead, 1949-’53, the whole distributor was moved to the right side of the engine and driven by an angled shaft, rather than directly from the front of the camshaft. I suspect that both your coils have deteriorated, resulting in heat soaking after a half-hour of running. This is not unusual for old electrical components; the plastics and varnishes used in their construction naturally degrade over time, and heat accelerates the process. The diagrams I’ve found of the various configurations show that the distributor mounting changed in 1942, so you will not be able to directly substitute the later unit. I’m not sure if it’s as simple as swapping the timing gear cover on which it mounts, nor whether the tongue that engages the camshaft is the same. It’s been quite a while since I’ve dabbled with Ford flatheads, but I seem to remember improved aftermarket ignition coils that would better withstand the heat – materials science has come a long way since 1941. I’m sure there are readers who know about this, and whether a later distributor with remote-mounted coil can be substituted.
Q. I’ve owned a 1989 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme International Series coupe since 1991. Like a similar car mentioned in “Q&A” some months ago, mine has a factory five-speed transmission and other items not found on other examples: four-wheel disk brakes, quick steering, stiffer suspension, 16-inch alloy wheels, dual outlet muffler, digital dash and 2.8-liter V-6 engine. While it was still under warranty, the Olds dealer could not/would not work on it as they had never seen one. How many International Series were made in coupe form, and with a factory five-speed? My car is all original with 72,000 garage-kept miles. What is its value?
Tom Kelley, Camden Wyoming, Del.
A. Oldsmobile offered International Series models in all three Cutlass subseries in 1989. The Cutlass Calais used a 2.5-liter OHV four and was available as a coupe or sedan. The mid-range Cutlass Ciera also offered coupe and sedan International Series models, but with the 2.8-liter V-6. The Cutlass Supreme International Series was offered only as a coupe with the 2.8-liter V-6. Interestingly, the five-speed was standard on this particular model, with a four-speed automatic as optional equipment. According to Krause Publications’ Standard Catalog of American Cars 1976-1999, the Supreme was the most popular of the International Series coupes, with 18,116 built. Cutlass Ciera and Cutlass Calais International Series coupes were far rarer, at 1,913 and 3,345, respectively. Interestingly, the rarest International Series 1989 Olds is the Calais sedan, with 1,590 built. There were 5,132 Ciera sedans. As to your car’s value, it’s new enough that some of the used car books list it, but ascribe to it a low figure. In the collector car market, it’s considerably more valuable. Old Cars Price Guide June 2008 edition lists a condition 3 car at $3,600. I don’t have access to any figures on the number of five-speed cars built. Even though a manual transmission was the basic option, I suspect most were built with automatics. Perhaps some readers know more.
Q. In the March 17 issue’s “Q&A,” there was a question about 1931 steel-roofed pickups. The all-steel body and top were introduced in August 1931, according to The Ford Model A as Henry Built It by George DeAngelis, Edward Francis and Leslie R. Henry (Motor Cities Publishing, 1971 and later editions). The all-steel body was produced only by Budd.
Eldon Frisk, Circle Pines, Minn.
A. Thanks for that information. If my calculations are correct, then, there were nearly 70,000 Model 78B pickups built with the steel roof between August 1931 and March 1932, out of 95,529 closed cab pickups produced between the introduction of the 78B in May 1931 and the end of Model A production. I used Krause Publications’ Standard Catalog of American Light Duty Trucks and James K. Wagner’s Crestline book Ford Trucks Since 1905 as sources for dates and production figures.
Q. Some time ago in “Q&A,” a reader asked about window price stickers for cars. I e-mailed the gentleman who does the stickers, concerning my 1958 Chevy Impala. I was told that the stickers started in ’59. A few weeks later, I read somewhere that the stickers started with the ’58 models. Which is correct?
Larry Dunn, Niagara Falls, N.Y.
A. You’re referring to the “Monroney sticker,” named after Almer Stillwell “Mike” Monroney (1902-’80), U.S. Representative from Oklahoma from 1939 to ’51 and Senator from 1951 to ’69. In March 1958, he sponsored a bill calling for the posting of a window sticker on each new passenger car, van or SUV that would show the manufacturer’s suggested retail price, the transportation method and cost, and the price of all installed accessories. It was signed into law on July 7, 1958, and became effective on September 1. It applied to all vehicles from the 1959 model year onwards, and presumably to those ’58s that might still have been in dealers’ inventories. There has long been some confusion about the effective date, a subject that has been raised in Old Cars Weekly before.
Q. I’ve been trying to find out if there’s a free database of cars and the cities in which they were produced. I live in Brockton, Mass., and there were three cars made here. One was the Marsh, but I’ve been unable to find out the other two. Is there a database that has listings by city or town?
George Manoogian, Brockton, Mass.
A. I don’t know of a free database, but the Standard Catalog of American Cars 1805-1942 has a geographical index of prewar car manufacturers. For Brockton it shows no fewer than seven: Atlantic Steamer, Cameron, Leighton, Marsh, Pickard, Roader and Sterling. Once readily available at a modest price, this Standard Catalog, written by Beverly Rae Kimes with research by Henry Austin Clark, Jr., and published by Krause Publications, is now out of print and used copies have become pricey.
Q. In